The author of the blog «HideMyCoat», editor of «Kiev Fashion People» Tanya Litkovska shared with us her observations about the reasons for the worldwide popularity of Ukrainian embroidery.

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US Vogue named vyshyvanka the main trend for 2015, and The New York Times – for 2016. How do you think magazines continue to dictate fashion despite of the popularity of street fashion?

 I think this is a case when magazines “approved” the trend, rather than dictate it. Ukrainian influence on modern fashion began to be felt with the advent of fashion designers and brands that literally injected with this unit of the traditional costume in a modern wardrobe of Ukrainians. As for me, of course, not without the influence of political events, but relatively soon Anna Dello Russo, Vivian Volpichella, Giovanna Battaglia and many celebrities who do not work in the fashion industry wore embroidered blouses.

Today embroidered shirt all over the world is a versatile clothing (combine it with jeans and shorts), but for our ancestors’ clothes with a large percentage of embroidery was special clothing for an important event. You think that embroidered shirts boom neutralizes the value of that wardrobe item for us, Ukrainians, don’t you?

 No. It is important to understand that the embroidery has always been present in the wardrobe of the Ukrainians, regardless of the solemnity of the moment. In casual clothing could be present a subtle embroidered ribbons or neckline, and in best clothes were present full embroidered stories. The more formal the item was – the more embroidery and the more manual labor were invested in it. Now, with the existence of embroidery machines and similar equipment, we perceive the efforts spent for the production of large amounts of embroidery in a different way, and we are not afraid to wear such outfits as casual look garment. If vyshyvanka wasn’t popular, nobody would be interested in that garment and its origin. It’s a pity that in America, for example, only few people pay attention to the ornament and plot of the embroidered pattern. Because certain compositions, motifs and colors of embroidery passed from generation to generation, becoming traditional for certain regions.

Wearing Ukrainian embroidered shirt in America, you say: “I’m – Ukrainian” or “I’m – fashionista”?

The one and the other, something like: “I am Ukrainian, and we have something to show the fashion world”. It’s like a music to my ears that every time when I wear vyshyvanka someone asks where it comes from. One paid special attention to vyshyvanka “Red Rue” by Foberini. And a person, who compliments rich red color and embroidered sleeves, is unwittingly doomed to thirty minute excursion into the history of the Ukrainian costume.

Do you think modern bohemian embroidery is a temporary trend, or the eternal “new classics”?

Although the words “boho” and “classics” for me will always be on opposite sides, I trend to the latter. Embroidered shirt certainly will never be a kitsch.

We know how authentic and modern embroidered shirt look. Tanya, tell us, please, how will look the future embroidered shirt?

Even Marty McFly would be glad of functional ornamentation made of microchips. (Laughs) Even today, designers successfully incorporate modern technologies into fashion. Fabrics and garments are made using a 3D printer. The trend towards active interaction between the fashion industry and high technology each year will increase more and more. In any case, with the use of innovative technologies or without them vyshyvanka will always be an important element of national dress for Ukrainians, it attests to the attribution to the Ukrainian people and its involvement in the past, current and future.

You’re a very stylish girl, we see that you experiment with different styles and looks. And what style appeals to you most?  

Minimalism. There are many outfits in different styles in my blog, but shortcut trousers and shirt of men’s cut are my favorites.

And the last question. “Slow fashion” Movement is gaining momentum all over the world, in America in particular. Do you think we can already speak about the end of mass-market era and the so-called “fast fashion”?

Interestingly that the term «slow» is used not only in relation to shopping and fashion, but also to life in general. The course to a slow fashion – is a protest against the cult of consumption, in which the more you bought, the better you are. Frankly, I do not think that the mass market will cease to exist in the near future, and on the contrary, one predicts incredible growth – 11% more profit each year until 2020. BUT! More and more people began to wonder about the quality of clothes, its exclusivity, environmental friendliness, safety in terms of the working conditions of staff and human rights in general. This is a personal choice of each person, and I’m glad that in the world appear more and more brands that use principles of sustainable development in their activities. Foberini is among such brands.

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